23|03|11 +++ TRAVEL REPORT ST. MARTIN & MARTINIQUE 2011
Day 1 – 10.03.11We left Munich at 07:20am with cloudy skies and 5°C, on an Air France flight to Paris. After a short transit at Charles de Gaulle we boarded the plane to St. Martin. The 8 hour flight went by quickly, thanks to the in-seat entertainment system with the latest blockbuster movies and countless videos and TV shows. We got the first good shots of St. Martin from the plane before we landed on the nearly too small runway, almost cutting off some people’s heads while flying only 20 feet over the beach! Immigration was super quick, you just have to fill in an immigration card on the plane, give the officer a nice smile and have some space ready for the stamp in your passport. Our luggage was already waiting for us so we were ready to go within a few minutes.
Mickael, our rental car partner, was waiting for us outside the airport and guided us to the vehicle that would drive us over the adventurous roads of the island. We figured quickly that asking for the speed limit was rather ridiculous, as you hardly ever go faster than 50 kmh. That is why all distances are measured in minutes, not kilometers, as sometimes 10 km can take you half an hour. Our first impression was great, sunny, strong breeze and we were certainly “overdressed” for 28°C.
It took us about 30 minutes to get from the airport to our FBC Center near Orient Bay and we had already passed half the island – spending half the time on the vigorous Dutch side before driving through the more laid back and beautiful French part of St. Martin. The FBC/Windy Reef Center was about to close for the day when we arrived, and we just got to check the water temperature (25°C) and wind forecast for the next day, before we checked in at the Palm Court Hotel in Orient Bay.
Day 2 – 11.03.11
The second day started with a continental breakfast, poolside, at the Palm Court Hotel. It was just after 8:00am and the sun was already too hot to really enjoy.
Best advice of the day: Re-apply sun screen 30+ every 3 hours, keep out of the sun and you will make it through your first day without sun burn.
We did a site inspection and photo shoot of the Palm Court Hotel in the morning, before headeding to the beach for the day’s second photo shoot at FBC St. Martin. Even though the breeze was too light to take any toys on the water we still got some great shots of the center and the spot, and the first SUP attempts of the youngest FBC team member – Violette (3 yrs).
The afternoon was filled with another site inspection at Captain Oliver’s Resort in Oyster Pond, just 15 minutes south of Orient Bay and right at the border to the Dutch side. The nice and spacious bungalows are set up on the hillside in a quiet and natural environment, offering great ocean or marina views. It is a charming, yet lively accommodation with a restaurant, snack bar and piano bar onsite. BYOB – bring your own boat if you like, and park it right in front of the restaurant :-)
Running late for a session on the water before the sun set, we decided on spending the evening together with the FBC Team Jean-Seb, Hélčne, Frank & Mathieu with a great BBQ with plenty of drinks!
Day 3 – 12.03.11
Another busy day was ahead with 3 site inspections during the day. First we visited La Plantation Resort in the middle of Orient Bay. Although not a beach location, this property gives you the real Caribbean flair. It consists of several villas with a 1-bedroom suite and 2 studios each (that you can rent altogether or separately), which are spread in a huge and beautiful tropical garden. They are all equipped with a kitchen or kitchenette, so you can easily prepare light meals and stay home for dinner. The buffet breakfast is served at the pool restaurant.
Then we headed back to Oyster Pond, where we visited the second bungalow property, called Les Balcon d’Oyster Pond, which impressed us with cozy Caribbean bungalows, large terraces and amazing marina views. Prices are great, the service very personal and the rooms leave nothing to be desired.
On our way back to Orient Bay we got the first glimpse of our afternoon activity, which we spent on SUP boards at the wave spot. If you are in shape you can easily paddle the distance to the reef. It is a great warm-up before you actually hit the waves. But you better watch out for the little (badass) surfers – they appear to pop out of every wave there is! Luckily they move faster than you think, they just don’t like you to occupy their “perfect” wave. Though it was only our second SUP experience we had no fears and headed right for the big waves (big being 3-5 feet). We have to admit we got washed several times, but it was great fun!
Our day was not over yet as we had another site inspection on schedule at L’Hoste Hotel, where we also spent our third night. This typical Caribbean style hotel is set amidst palm trees, right on the beautiful sandy beach of Orient Bay. We arrived just in time for the BBQ and pool party (which takes place every other month). Good food, cool drinks, nice music – what else you need
for a great evening?
Day 4 – 13.03.11
Sunday started easy with a continental breakfast by the pool, followed by a visit to the Orient Bay beach. This beach is packed sun chair after sun chair, beach bars, water sports such as parasailing, jet skiing, banana boat and much more. There is also windsurfing and kitesurfing is this bay. However, it is nothing compared to the conditions at Galion Beach, where the FBC St. Martin/Windy Reef Center is located. Orient Bay beach has a lot of action on the water, so you always have to beware of what you do and where you move. There is quite a shore break and the water is super choppy - not so much fun we figured. Back at Galion Beach in the afternoon we gave it at chance and grabbed the new 2011 Fanatic boards and hit the water. With only 13-14 knots we took a Fanatic Hawk 135, with 6.7 sails and got planing a few times. The wind was stronger further out in the bay, but it tended to be a bit gusty. Back on land after a few strikes in and out, we decided to finish the day with a SUP work out session – yet again.
In the evening we moved to La Plenitude, a newly built private guesthouse with modern studios, near Friar’s Bay. It is in a country side location, about 15 minutes by car away from Galion Beach. The owner, Isabelle, is the Mom of St. Martin’s most famous and talented surf newcomer William Allioti – we will certainly hear more about him in the near future.
Day 5 – 14.03.11
Our last day on the island – unfortunately. What still hadn’t tried kitesurfing, so we decided to get up early to get the best from the morning wind. Despite the so-so forecast the wind decided not to show up, so we had semi-perfect conditions for our first lessons. We went with Mathieu to the kite “learning” zone, about 10 minutes south of Galion Beach. It is a super flat lagoon, absolutely safe but with limited space. Fully equipped with helmet and life vest we went straight into the water. We had a 1 on 1 session with Mathieu and he did a great job teaching us the basics about the security system, handling the kite, stirring, drop and re-launch of the kite and finally the first body drags – all that in only 1.5 hrs, absolutely amazing. In a group with 3-4 students you need at least 3-5 hours to be at the same level. Pay the extra bucks guys and make the most of it – it’s worth it!
As that was certainly not enough action for the day and the wind was still hadn’t shown up, we took our now beloved SUP boards and headed straight to the waves. We had to seize the opportunity, as there were no surfers in the waves yet. Jean-Seb and Yann did some really nice rides on waves 3-5 ft high – but not without damage – “luckily” to the bodies, not the equipment :-). I decided to stay on the outer edge of the waves, just trying to get some white water, but damn these waves are unpredictable and fast, so again, I had another session in the “tumbler” and battled with my paddle underwater. The next day Yann & I compared our “action-injuries” and decided the “loser” has to buy a drink that night – sorry Yann, but my bruises really hurt – I’d rather pay for the drinks. :-)
Day 6 – 15.03.11
Departure day started with a heavy rain shower and stormy wind (30 knots) in the morning. We had to pack early to be in time for our flight to Martinique (via San Juan/Puerto Rico). We spent the night at Over the Hill Guesthouse, just 2 minutes outside of Gran Case and about 10 minutes away from Galion Beach. We learned in the past 4 days that distances are better measured in minutes, rather than kilometers, as you easily need 10 minutes for 3 km sometimes. The guesthouse is located on top of a little hill with great views over the bay of Grand Case. Rooms are simple and functional, but clean and well priced. We stayed at the apartment with a separate bedroom and fully equipped kitchen. This is the best choice for travelers on a small budget with basic needs.
Day 7 – 16.03.11
After an adventurous journey with American Airlines via Puerto Rico – where we had the standard immigration procedure like we would have in the US, just for a 5 hours layover – we arrived late in Martinique. We of course had to stop at a local bar to get a taste of the local rum before we went to Hotel Carayou, our final stop for the next three nights. We had a relaxed start in the morning with breakfast right by the ocean – 8:00am, 27°C, humid. Today we got lucky with the wind and were able to take some action photos on the water. The wind blows almost fully onshore at the spot, but thanks to the large bay and the location of the center at the tip of the peninsula, you have no problems. As the natural beach has been washed away over years you will access the water via a wooden deck. Once on the water you have endless space and a picturesque landscape to enjoy.
Windsurfers and kitesurfers have no problem sharing the spot. The spot however is not so easy to access for kitesurfers, unless you are very experienced. However, you will have a boat lift further out into the bay where you have ample space to launch your kite. Guillaume, the manager at FBC Martinique, does his best to please everybody, and you can rest assured that you will have a good time.
During the day we visited Hotel La Pagerie, which is only a 5 minute’s walk away. It is situated in the Village Creole, surrounded by shops, bars and restaurants. The hotel offers spacious rooms, nicely furnished, all with completely re-modeled bathrooms. There is also a pool in the very well-kept courtyard.
Day 8 – 17.03.11
The day started with light wind in the morning, so we seized the opportunity to fully inspect Hotel Carayou. It is located right on the shoreline, with FBC Martinique in the grounds. A large palm tree garden offers ample shaded space to get your equipment ready. The hotel with its typical Caribbean flair is surrounded by a beautifully landscaped, tropical garden. It’s perfect for guests with children, as the family stays at the same spot with convenient access to the room.
The wind picked up in the afternoon so we grabbed some boards and headed right for the mangrove. We realized quickly that we were underpowered with 130 L boards and 6.2 sails. Well, one good reason to finish the day with a cool drink from Guillaume’s little on-site bar, and just relax on the newly finished deck.
Day 9 – 18.03.11
The day of departure – unfortunately, since we had now adjusted to the weather and temperature. It rained overnight, which is not a good forecast for the wind, so we were facing a totally calm sea, passing clouds and a burning heat in the morning. The wind picked up a bit around noon, perfect for some windsurf lessons. The courses for beginners are conducted by boat, which brings the students out to the sandbank in front of the mangrove. What a great place to practice! We went out on large boards with small sails ourselves for 2 hours, just to practice some maneuvers and at least get our feet wet before we board the flight home. For the flight back to Germany we had to change airports in Paris, and had to recheck-in our bags. The journey is not too bad and well organized by Air France. You get your ticket for the shuttle bus already when checking in at Martinique airport, so everything is very easy. The good news is that Air France will start with flights leaving Paris CDG on NOV 1st, which will make it a lot faster and more convenient when you are connecting from or to a different city in Europe.
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